Tangier, Morocco

January 17, 2020

Since Hector has gone back to the US for work, I decided to do a little excursion. This week I signed up for a day tour (Malaga a Pie €88) of Tangier, which is just across the Strait of Gibraltar on the Moroccan coast. At 5:45 am the tour bus picked me up downtown and at 10 am we were boarding the ferry at Tarifa, after having collected 30 more passengers at all the tourist towns along the way.

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Ferry to Tangier

45 minutes later, after landing in Tangier, passport stamped on the boat, we got on the bus and headed up the hill to the British quarter, obviously to see the best first. We drove through all the gorgeous parks and palaces on the hillside, then abruptly stopped at a parking lot for the obligatory camel ride. Non, merci.

Our guide spoke Spanish, English, French and German fluently, which was very impressive until it became clear that she intended to repeat every word in each language, since we were quite a mixed bag of tourists.  Once we got to the old city, the medina, we divided into smaller groups, fewer nationalities.

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Entrance to the Medina

The walk through the narrow streets of the medina was wonderful, although it lacked some of the thrill of danger that can be found in other old cities (see my post Marrakech). A young Moroccan vendor I chatted with, lazily selling key chains, told me we were the only tour in town that day so no one was very committed to doing the full show.

He took great pleasure in the poor old British ladies who were afraid of everything. He said the Chinese were that way too, terrified that one of them was about to steal their camera. As we headed toward the bus, my friend would scream “last chance, you’ll be sorry!” then have a good laugh.

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In the medina

Later, we went to a “Moroccan Spice Shop” which turned out to be a full-on old fashioned medicine show, with an adorable Moroccan man flirting with the ladies and kissing the bald heads of the men. “Ladies, you got lazy husband don’t give you jiggy jiggy? Give him two drops of this and 20 minutes later jiggy jiggy! Who has hemorrhoids? I have lotion for that!” And on and on. It was worth the cost of the whole tour. Everyone bought something, I bought two bottles of Arnica oil: “sore muscles and smooth skin, maybe hair on your head too!”

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Clear your sinuses. Permanently!

Back on the ferry, and very long ride home, dropping off all the Germans, French, Spanish, British, Canadians in Marbella, Estepona, Benalmadena, Fuengirola, Torremolinos, and the final stop at 9:30 pm, poor little American me in Malaga. Should have got that hemorrhoid lotion!

 

 

Kings Day!!

Jan 6, 2020…

Malagueños adore fiestas and holidays, or really any excuse to leave work and go out with friends. During the holidays, the cafes are jammed with big holiday lunches that go on for hours, followed by another hour outside smoking and saying goodbye. Construction projects come to a standstill for weeks, and shop opening hours become just a hypothesis. This is one of the reasons we love Malaga.

Additionally, they stretch out the holiday season an extra week, until the very pinnacle, Kings Day, Dia de Reyes on the 6th of January. We’ve experienced this celebration from the edges before but this year, with Kent and Bob in town, we decided to jump in with both feet.

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The Cavalcade

To fully appreciate the cavalcade, (their word) or parade, it’s best to secure good seats! At exactly noon on December 26, I was able to secure seats online in a prime section on the front row, and on the night of the parade, with the welcome input of every Malagueño within 50 yards, we found our seats.

I could go on and on about the costumes, the bands, the tons of candy thrown to the children (and us) from the floats but the very best part was when the mail carriers came marching in formation with their yellow mail carts and the crowd started cheering “cor-re-os! cor-re-os!” Then all the kids ran out with their letters to the kings, which the mail carriers put in their carts and then gave the kids candy. It was so adorable I could die just retelling it.

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Correos!

Like all parades it got a bit long, but we escaped the crowd quickly, only to hit the parade again on the other side of the downtown area on the way home.

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Next morning, everything was swept and washed, you never would have known 4 million pieces of candy had been thrown the night before.

 

Madrid

Dec 30, 2019…

Our buddies from Santa Fe, Kent and Bob, came to Spain for a visit so we took the train to Madrid to meet them at the airport. We all stayed overnight at the historic Palace Hotel (50k points per night), one of those grand, overblown hotels with a sumptuous lobby like in a 1930’s musical, but when you get off the elevator on your floor, it’s just ordinary hotel rooms. The breakfast however was a real treat. The lobby was a nonstop parade of nations.

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Palace Hotel

We attempted our standard whirlwind 24 hour tour of Madrid for the boys but of course they had jet lag and we didn’t. Additionally, there were so many holiday visitors in town it was almost impossible to see the hotspots. Parque Retiro was do-able and very lovely, as was Plaza Santa Ana, but we couldn’t get anywhere near the Plaza Sol, the heart of the city. Mercado San Miguel was no fucking way but we accomplished the highlights of the Prado Museum.  One new discovery: the fantastic rooftop bar at Círculo de Bellas Artes, which is a repurposed cultural center off the Gran Via. It costs about €4 cover charge but worth it for the view. Go at sunset if possible but it’s lovely at night as well.

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Rooftop Bar at Círculo de Bellas Artes

Then on to Malaga in the quiet car of the high speed train (tix at Renfe.com at about €75 each way). If it’s offered, you should always request the quiet car on a Spanish train. After we got settled I passed through 4 cars to get to the club car and it was like stepping from the public library into the midst of a hockey game. Kids were screaming, phones ringing, people laid out in the aisle; barking dogs would not have surprised me.

Christmas at Carligto

Dec 23…

This is our 3rd or 4th Christmas up at our friends’ house, the award-winning Cortijo el Carligto. A cortijo is a traditional Spanish country house, and they have become popular money makers as vacation homes in this part of Spain. Carligto is two large homes on one property and it’s a bit like a dream nestled at the top of a mountain, surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. Since Christmas is usually slow, we have been going up to spend a few days with our friends over the years. They are serious foodies and wine lovers so… are you with me here?

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Cortijo el Carligto

This is the 2nd year we hired a young couple to make dinner, so the four of us can just sit around getting shit faced in our pajamas on Christmas Day. David and Elena are Detako, a chef service based in Malaga. If you look at their food gallery photos you can see why, by the end of the meal, I would have gladly given up your first born child.

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I don’t even remember what this treasure was. 

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Christmas Day with Al, Marc, and Detako

After a few days, Al and Marc drove us and our enlarged livers back to Malaga.

Lisbon

December  20…

Lisbon has been on our travel list for a while and since it seems that most of our travel buddies have already been, well, need I say more? An easy (you’d think) nonstop from Malaga on TAP (Portugal Air, €151 rt each), we landed after delays and easily got a taxi to our hotel, the rather delightful Fontecruz (€185 or 40k points per night). It was raining and windy, very few pre-Christmas tourists: in other words, just the way we like it.

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Museum of Tile

I really didn’t have any idea what to expect but here’s what we found, in order of significance: fantastic seafood just about everywhere, friendly locals, reasonable prices, some gorgeous architecture, and a shitload of shoe stores. Leather is a big deal here. Also tiles. The best museum we visited was the National Tile Museum. Other worthy stops for a short visit were the Castelo St George with a wander through the Alfama District, the Convento de Carmo, and the neighborhood restaurant Marisqueria Ramiro. And Sintra. Let me say that again. Sintra. Take the train in the morning, spend the day wandering and you can come back to Lisbon that day. It’s a collection of small villages sprinkled through a mountainside with some of the most interesting and eccentric gardens and palaces. The pedicabs are cheap, or just climb. Stop at the teeny Lawrence Hotel for a coffee in the teeny lounge.

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Sintra

Our return to Malaga on TAP Air was so ridiculous with delays and obfuscations that I would rather just not talk about it.

Caña days

December 11, 2019…

The holiday is over now but these tourists are slow to go home. We, however, are settling in nicely to this month of perpetual self indulgence here in Malaga. After a 2 hr workout and steam at the GoFit Gym, we took the train to the local mall, Plaza Mayor, for a little retail workout. Hector bought a lovely work jacket and I bought a small back pack and a mustard yellow down jacket, which I do not need but for €40 I couldn’t afford not to get it. Shopping is fun in Spain because prices seem really good. You just have to get over the fact that 90% of the clothes are for thin little Spaniards, a point brought to our attention a few years ago when a shopkeeper told us apologetically that he only carries normal sizes.

Last night we met local friends Anna and Juan for wine and tapas at La Bougainvillea. Anna is a Polish artist and was in my Spanish class a few years ago here. She married a local Malagueño boy, Juan, and now they’re pregnant with a baby girl whom they have already named Laura! So I guess they are serious about this marriage thing.

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Roman Amphitheater, with the Alcazaba in the background

Next day: noticeably quieter in town. Sunny weather is perfect for an afternoon caña (little beer) in front of the Teatro Romano. We depart on Sunday for 5 days in Lisbon, with showers predicted. See, I told you I need that yellow jacket.

 

Marrakesh

Dec 2015…

We were here years ago, at the end of one of our walking tours, but it was just one night so I always wanted to come back. And it’s only an hour or so from Málaga (via Casablanca. Now that’s an airport you won’t soon forget.)  We stayed at the espectacular Riad Kheirredine for three nights (€170 per night), by far the best part of the whole trip. Can’t say enough about the great food, service, value. We had our first dinner served to us on the roof deck, looking out over the city.riad-kheirredine-marrakechjpg-xlarge

Riad Kheirredine

The old city of Marrakesh is a warren of dark alleys, unnamed streets, and perilous entrapments for tourists. It’s delicious. It’s been a market city for centuries so I can promise you the locals in the souk know a thing or two about selling. The word no is merely an invitation to grab you by the shoulders and sell directly into your face.

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at a neighborhood Mosque

Actually, wandering through the old souk is a pleasure everyone should have once in their lives, and if you make it to the other side alive, you get to experience the amazing Jemaa el-Fnaa, a centuries-old market square that still buzzes with a raffish air of danger. Snake charmers, dentists, fortune tellers, acrobats, food vendors, horse carriages, and hustlers all compete for your favors. A photo might end up costing you $10 by the time the snake charmer is done brow-beating you. The best thing is just to sit at a cafe, nursing mint tea, watching the British get harassed instead of you.

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Jemaa el-Fnaa, old

Jemaa el Fna (central square), Mosquee Koutoubia (mosque) in background, Marrakech, Morocco

Here’s what it looks like lately.