Semana Santa

April 2022

In Spain, especially here in Andalucia, cultural traditions, religious or otherwise, are revered and cherished by the locals of all ages. They form the community bonds of the Spaniards and they would never consider abandoning them unless the cause was dire. Because of covid, virtually all of Andalusia’s traditional holidays and celebrations were delayed for a full two years. So this year, for Holy Week, the anticipation has been building as the city began to repair potholes, repaint the street lights and set up thousands of bleachers along the procession routes. The circus has come to town.

It’s very hard to describe, if you haven’t seen it, the all-encompassing importance of Semana Santa for a city like Malaga. Aside from the tourist money it brings in, which is unbelievable (at this point it is impossible to find a hotel room or restaurant table), it is a chance for the cofradias (brotherhoods) to show penitence to the community and share their charitable works. The groups of men, women, and children affiliated with the countless neighborhood churches throughout the city center, display their tronos (thrones) of Jesus and Mary along a set route, past the Cathedral to be blessed and past a tribuno of dignitaries and community members. The route can take up to eight hours to complete. Aside from any religious interest, it is one hell of a show.

The bleachers and folding chairs have been in the hands of locals for generations so the best way to view the processions is either of two ways: get a schedule and arrange yourself along the chosen route about 2 hours in advance of departure, or just walk around and follow the sound of horns and drums, which is pretty much non-stop all week. You are guaranteed to run into a procession somewhere. If you are smart, like we are, you can reserve a table well in advance at your friendly local sidewalk cafe which happens to be on the procession route.

Yesterday, we stood huddled among thousands of viewers on narrow Calle Fajardo, as the Real y Muy Ilustre Hermandad de la Sagrada Cena Sacramental de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo y María Santísima de la Paz (tr: Last Supper and Virgin Mary) paraded past, accompanied by horns and drums, a large group of penitents (some with the cone hats) and small children carrying large candles. Mary was styling it in a haloed crown and 25 foot train. An hour later, from our table at Buganvilla, plenty of sacred wine in hand, we saw it all go past again.