October 2020
I have lived in California longer, in fits and spurts, than anywhere else in my life, and it still feels like the promised land to me. I remember the smells and the sense of newness from when I first arrived sometime in the late 1970’s. So there’s about 45 years of fun California memories in my luggage. And one of the very best is doing the drive along the Redwood Highway, along the coast, passing through some of the most iconic and unbelievable scenery in the world. There are many routes and diversions along the way, and going south to north is just as good as north to south.
We started on Highway 101 at the Oregon border and drove directly south to Trinidad for our first night. We had stayed at the Emerald Forest Cabins a few years ago and loved it, and it was just as lovable this time, if a bit more crowded. There are a lot of cabins but they are scattered among the redwoods so it feels more secluded than it really is. Very naturey. Foresty.
This was when the whole West Coast of the US was having terrible wild fires and the smoke was with us all the way from Colorado. Since we were now close to the shore, there were periods of clearer air but at times it was impossible even to see the ocean as we wove in and out of the forests. The highway narrows through the redwood groves and there are areas to stop and walk through the surreal clearings, no sunlight making it down to the floor.
We stayed a couple of nights in Mendocino, at the Agate Cove Inn [$375 per night] with a fantastic view of the Pacific Ocean. Ate twice at Trattoria Luna [Farfalle California $22], hiked at the Headlands State Park, then restocked the sadly depleted ice chest and headed out for Monterey.
Hector used to visit schools several times a year in the Monterey area, and it was always a treat to tag along. Monterey Bay is beautiful and very dramatic, and the Aquarium is the best I have seen in the world, and we have visited lots of aquariums. Driving along the unbelievable 17-mile drive toward Carmel is best done early in the day, particularly on a weekend, because Carmel gets very crowded and Mommy will be terribly cranky as Daddy circles around and around looking for parking for an hour.
After 3 nights in Monterey we came down the coast and stayed one night in Santa Barbara, then into Los Angeles for 2 nights. I lived in Los Angeles for many years when I was a starving young actor, and I have to drive past all my old haunts every. single. time. Griffith Park. Sunset Blvd. Farmer’s Market. Beverly Hills. Poor Hector. Restaurants were still only serving outdoors so we joined our LA-based travel buddies, Tere and Martin, for brunch at Lady Bird Cafe in Echo Park. I had the Chilled Oatmeal [$11]. Only joking. Lemon Poppy Seed Pancakes [$13]. Side of Bacon [$4].
travel eat repeat 